Testaccio Market in Rome

Bright sun but cold enough that merchants are closing up early.  Everyone is wrapped up against the cold even though the market stalls are protected from the wind.

Since we moved here in November, Nancy and I have had the pleasure of shopping at the Testaccio Market about weekly.  We have established our favorite market stalls for some things and developed friendly relationships with a few merchants and one garlic seller.

Today we have had the pleasure of taking our visiting friends, Lyn and Charles, to do shopping for their stay.  We bought chicken, bread, produce and garlic. We intended to get fish from Daniella but all the fish stalls were closed--too bad because Nancy has been learning the names of the fish in Italian.  We know not why they are closed--but decided it would be chicken tonight.

I say we, but actually Charles is cooking tonight and needed to think on his feet to plan dinner for us. He loves to shop for food anyway so he was focused.  Lyn and I held down the table where we parked all our purchases.

Charles wandered around the butcher stalls and decided on chicken breasts.  Then he wandered a bit more and decided that we will have them stuffed with dates and honey--trifoglio honey (we all guessed this one right: clover  The picture on the label was also a clue.)

Nancy has shopped with this fruit and vegetable vendor since we arrived here.  She tried out several others but this one has really good stuff and is friendly.  We much appreciate those vendors who will struggle along with us in our very poor Italian. Sicilian broccoli, pears, clementines, onions.  The big treat today--artichokes from Puglia--all trimmed by our vendor so we can try to prepare them in the Roman way.  We have had them a few times in restaurants--can we possibly re-create these deep-fried crispy artichokes?  I have the idea they are a Roman-Jewish specialty.  We first tried them in a restaurant in the ghetto but they are available elsewhere too.  We can report back later whether we were able to make anything like what we have eaten.

Lyn was the bakery scout.  Olive bread, plain bread for toast, a pretty big panettone (Charles' favorite), a small blueberry tart.  Also four pastries which lasted about 10 minutes after she got back to our table with them.

We all cooperated at the cheese and salami stall.  We have shopped there weekly and the woman in the stall knows us and remembers us.  She is a friendly woman and a cheese specialist.  Her husband is the specialist who handles shaving the thin strips of procuttio or helps identify the best type of salami.  It is a pleasure to watch them give intense personal attention to the customers ahead of us and very fun to be next and noticed and welcomed as though it is the highlight of their week to see us.  Today, I am proud to say that I was able to introduce "noi amici degli stati uniti" and they actually understood me--not just politely pretending.

Big balls of buffalo mozzarella from Romana.  Pecorino Siciliana with red pepper flakes.  Blue cheese--we can't remember from where.  Salame ungherese -- Charles' loves this type, a little spicy. Today we were getting big amounts: mezzo-kilo of pecorino!  The pecorino is branching out.  Up to now we have been getting Romano because we are temporary Romanos ourselves.  But this Sicilian cheese was standing up there on the top in big round wheels--who could resist trying out this foreign food all the way from Sicily?

We rounded out our strenuous shopping with coffee from the coffee bar in the center of the market.  I enjoy this market so much.  It has beautiful light even in the center without direct sun reaching in.  It is a new building and maybe not so much loved by all as it replaced a funky old market which has been around for a hundred years.  But I have no history so can enjoy the clever way the architects designed the glass roof, solar panels, vertical shade panels to provide light, air movement, shade, rain protection.  The center of the market is a sitting area with tables.  You can just sit or have something from the coffee bar or the wine seller or the sandwiches or, in our case, the pastries.

Once we gathered our strength, we left the market, walked past Monte Testaccio to Trattoria della Oio for a Roman lunch.  Carbonara pasta, oxtail with pomodoro, soup with potatoes and noodles.  The usual mezzo-litro of vino blanco.  Again too full for dessert.

Then the 719 bus and home.  Nap time.

Written by Julianne.  Photos too this time--sadly you can tell the lesser quality from Nancy's photos but, hey, they are here.  Dinner upcoming by Charles.