Nancy and Julianne's Travels: Pizza update--Naples

Naples must be the center of the pizza universe. Whatever they do here sets the standard for the world. Properly so--it is delicious.

Since I posted a few days ago about Roman thin-crust pizza, I am reporting back after sampling some outstanding fare during our week in Naples.

As you see in the photos, the crust is thicker. Very bready and with a good 'tooth' like bread. A bit chewy by contrast with Rome's crispy crust.

The standard pizza seems to be brushed with olive oil although red sauce is present too. Neapolitans seem to be even more aware of fine territorial distinctions in where their food was produced so one orders mozzarella--only buffalo mozzarella. Or there is 'fior di latte' which is made with cows' milk and comes from a special area.

In Naples, they are connoisseurs of sausages and other pork products. (One goes to the north of Italy for beef.) So distinctions of sausage or bacon or ham as we would identify the items are multitude. All delicious.

Local news in Naples is covering someone's research that pizza did not actually originate in Naples but just north at Gaeta. Historians have found that the tithe to the bishop of Gaeta in the 9 C. required 12 pizzas at Christmas and 12 at Easter. No requirement as to thickness of crust.

Evidence points to the adoption of Arab bread as the base for whatever eventually became pizza in southern Italy. Another gift of the Arabs. Since Naples and area were under the governance of the Saracens for centuries off and on, the basic food of the area seems to have adopted the best of many cultures.

Now, Italy is the epicenter of the "slow food" movement. In the mid-1980's, McDonald's was expanding to Rome causing a reaction and beginning the slow food approach which capitalizes on the Italian appreciation of good local ingredients and careful preparation. Naples may be more foodie than other areas and has micro niches of excellent volcanic soil which produces famous tomatos or other produce. Their products are prized throughout Italy and in many parts of the world. Tough on the locals since the price goes up for them.

We had pizza at 50 Kalo in Naples which combines the pizza world with the slow food world. We were ready to set up a little home under the table so we'd never have to leave.

We had other great food in Naples. In fact, the one time we tried lasagna was the only disappointing meal in a week of good food.